1994 Chevrolet S-10 TAHOE blazer body dropped
1994 Chevrolet S-10VIN: 1GNCS18W3R0104587Listing Date: 2019/07/14
Price: $X,000.0Mileage: XX0,000Location: Garden Grove,CA,USA
More pictures coming soon! Just to be clear, you are buying a project, you are responsible to have the means to wrap it up. I am selling because I need to put time into house projects and my business. From the talent I see on tv, this project isn't that hard to finish for a fabber that wants something truley unique to drive to the shop. The 4.3 runs perfect, replaced the timing chain and water pump, replaced ALL freeze plugs with BRASS freeze plugs around the whole block, all new seals while I hade the engine out. I also replaced the original central fuel injector spider assembly. I used to drive this up to Mammoth mountain before the body drop, motor and trans always ran strong. New power steering pump, 10 miles tops on the water pump and steering pump. Trans shifts perfect. Has over $10k in quality parts, suspension arms, vette brakes, vette diff (lays 2 tracks) with new gears, march alum pulleys, shock through bag suspension, electric fan. Bell tech drop spindles, sealed front bearing conversion, centerline 20x12.75 and 18x9 front wheels. Muffler is a 50 series flowmaster. BODY: The body is body dropped it 4.5 inches. The passender door is dented, you can see in picture if you look carefully, I am including another door in this sale as well as another hood. The rear quarter driver side has a small dent as well. The body has the factory paint under 90% of the primer so factory seal is intact most of the body. The roof does have some surface rust in the back but this is a California car, NO rot. Floor needs sheet metal fab, lots of work to do but tons of parts. The doors are closed in at the body drop, just needs rear floor. The doors were shaved and entry is via a viper alarm and remote. I installed a rear hatch ( oem)solenoid as well so both buttons activate the third relay under the hood, I don't think the hatch is connected at this time though. All the shaving and roll pan should be stripped of filler and completely welded. I stitch welded cover plates for the door handles and hatch, I think I did primer, then duraglass then body filler, anyways, not the right way to do it. I didn't know all that much about bodywork 23 years ago when I did it. SUSPENSION: Front, upper and lower tube arms from Air ride Tech with shock wave bags and adjustable shocks. Pontiac Trans am sway bay (1.125 diameter at least, maybe 1..250)Rear: Air Ride Tech shock/bag (same as front) 1984 vette independent suspension. REAR END: Dana LSD new gears and seals. Gears picked to keep the gearing within 1 or 2% within factory with the 315/35/20s. So its not really "geared" I have all the paperwork to prove recent work ($1100.00 just for the gears, seals and labor) BRAKES: C5 brakes, new GM pads ( 7 miles at most) Rotors were used when I bought. Steel braided lines all four corners. The number one thing to do is install the hydroboost I bought for it. It has a remote vacuum booster now and is very pathetic and dangerous. I said it runs and drives, but I would not allow a buyer to drive it home or to shop, I would do it if its within few miles but its too dangerous with the brakes the way they are now, not working properly. This is a big project to finish, I don't want to mislead anyone, you should be ready to spend many hours in the garage or shop fabing but this is the fun! its not fun to me anymore, I have to many things to do now. Truck is non op, no back fees. clean title in hand.
